Battle Tanks Nederland

I'll start again on something new.

I have now been to the fair in Mainz pan of a "standard recovery vehicle" Bassis on a Leopard 1 hull with me are that I will devote myself now finally.

It is next to a new suspension and a Brushles drive with real inertia, shoring axle and what else is needed to deal with the new forces.

Here but for now the tub in its current state.





The new gearbox with Brushless are also ready already. But it still lacks the flywheels.

Today I come not to build anything, but a little pre-work I already have.

For the suspension but I need total 64 items, the screws are not counted.

I've always casually made ​​some collars and springs.

Since I'm doing the parts for suspension for two tanks of course it went well with the plug trays on.
This fall only Tamiya typically much leaner, but the technique is the same.

Although I currently have to do much else, but it goes a little further .

First, I had to plug the spoon on the plug side turning something as Tamyia in the camp has only afford a bore of 5.7 mm.



After I had cut the 3mm silver steel rods for the axles it came to soldering the parts. The axles I 'm still well before the later soldering is ground and that the solder joints have to be fat free should be clear.

So I chucked the spoon plug and put a piece of solder in the hole. so I warm the part then from the bottom to the tin melts into the hole. Then I heat immediately the silver steel axle on the ground and place Verzinne this also before I stick it in the hole in the plug tray . The whole then even more heat from the outside to the gas burner and turn the axle there. When it is sufficient to recognize well that the swelling out clean solder runs around the shoulder of the spoon and wets the axis. So then you have a durable connection .





This is what I made ​​with all the axes that. If there's something going on solder can be wonderful grind again after cooling.

Even with the Bergeleo it goes on again. Since I had currently very busy and Leo so hurry is not always nice and slow, but steady.

First, I have today searched for the matching springs out of my range.



The attachable spoon needed a little fine-tuning, but they now fit perfectly spilefrei into the slot of the swing arms.



And so I've successively from the center (since there are no shock absorbers) built the axes with the springs.







Only with the shock absorbers I'm not really happy. Let's see if they keep the driving operations because the plastic but very old and brittle.

In the tub I have before I finished build the suspension still tasted like the gears are , so I install the adjusting rings correct.



Then it was after the cutting of an aluminum profile for the counter-support which in the series of processing .
First, set the punch marks for drilling the screw and drill with a clear undersize .





With the screwdriver , I then thread the M3 more piercing than Cut . How to reach with the help of much alcohol a bulge at the top and to be able enough threads to securely fasten the angle .



The prepared angle , I can now put in the tub so that I draw with felt-tip pen to the holes in the tank bottom and drilling can .



At the bottom of the pan I bow to the holes because the screws disappear in large part in this .



And so then I was able to mount the suspension done and ever adjust coarse.

And it comes with the gear installation more .
Since the tub is because about very soft I have to think me a little .

First determining the correct position and in particular the amount of the transmission.







Then I have to first remove the transmission axis and the outside turned down to 6mm , so that fits the drive wheel .





In the power axis are used shoring necessary, but I have to use special , small warehouse and a particularly narrow bracket. This I turn me from an aluminum rod .













As it touches still the driving wheel on the support which is why I get a little stage from this .



So I can now slide the drive into place and the axle is as far as it is feasible supported at this .

The gear I have now put together after editing the axes again and glued the gears to the axles . The only way to get these engine performance a sufficient connection.



The nights step is to build a support and attachment for the gear . In addition, I would like to stiffen so that the very soft tub. That's why I use this two aluminum rods that I adjust and some milled to set the transmission to the correct height .









The transmission pads I now screw with two screws to the floor.



So I can now mount the gear fixed and the axis shoring stick to the hull sides .





Here , the adhesive must now first re- harden, then I 'll take care of the inertias of the motors.

So slowly I will come back also to build something and Leo is supposed to be done once .

So it went a little today with the flywheels on. To this end, I cut two pieces of steel rod.



This I surfaced and provided with a grated 9mm hole.



To be able to unscrew the middle better , I had the hole on one side to 14mm depth 12mm boring . This works best with a 12mm cutter .



So I can facilitate the inertia of weight where it does not make sense and they unscrew so .





On ässeren edge I turn to yet a paragraph. So I have not tilt the gearbox and can more stable mount for the clearing tasks and inertia adjust the suspension over.





That was again for today. The mounting and balancing are the next time your turn.

Today I make the flywheels done.

I should mention drill the mounting holes in the steel.
I do this on a small and very simple turntable which is sufficiently accurate for such work .
This I can easily clamp in my vise and find with the help of a motor and a suitable drill bit in the chuck the proper drilling position on the pitch circle .



So I can now drill every 120 ° , a 2.1 mm hole in each flywheel.





So I can now mount the flywheel with three M2 screws each on the engines. To secure the screws for easier contact adhesive has been proven .



In the next step I must inertia balancing . In addition I have screwed the motors in the cheek of an old gear and connected to the battery and controller. With a servo tester so I can leave the engine running while I hold the gear cheek with the engine between the fingers. So you spührt even the finest vibrations. The imbalance I am like a simple 2-component modeling clay from the I press the Innneseite the flywheels . With a little practice, you have a quick and good result in this way.





After balancing , I can now finally mount the gear in the tub.





Now I must first deal with it as with the original , the chain tensioner looks. The Tamyia solution is not a solution for me.

Today I begin to build a chain tensioner . This has to fulfill several tasks in this tank , so I can not use commercially available .
Since the tub is very unstable by the two recesses for the plow blade and this was suspended from the old I have to think of something .



So I start first with the eccentrics .
For this I work a 10 x 10mm brass rod in the I install two 5mm and 6mm holes just outside the center.



Since 10mm as the distance between the tub and stator are too big , I milled the eccentric off to one side about 2mm .



So I can now Exenter abschneiten from the bar and the holes and threaded the mount of axes .





And so the eccentric seen later from the side wall.



In order to solder the eccentric stable with a 6mm silver steel axle , I file the holes out square .





So I can solder the parts hard.



Then the eccentric are first processed on the lathe .



The outer loop to form I with the belt sander .

And on it goes with the chain tensioner.
Today I am building the supports for the eccentric and the dozer blade . In addition, I stiffen so that the hull front , but first I cut out a 28mm aluminum round bar from two pieces .



The metal pieces I turn plan , bring them to the same length and drill a 6mm central hole for the Exenterachse .





One side I milled from something .



Just so that they fit on the sides to the overlap of the tub.



Then I drill a second hole to 8mm offset in the two brackets by the later the axis for the dozer blade is inserted . In addition, I use this to align the brackets in the tub.







To clamp the eccentric I drill nich in each mount an M4 thread.





After I 've installed in the sides of the pan , the 6mm holes for the eccentric , the inside abgschliffen and degreased , I can glue the brackets. For alignment I use a 5 and 6mm silver steel rod that were previously lightly greased . How can I get them after the adhesive has cured out again.

Today I had to pull the steel rods from the brackets. I had greased thin before gluing and now I turn it with a screwdriver out. How it works quite easily and also glue residues are ignored.



First, I now have the suspension of the shield, which also tried the pan amplified and it works great. Since one should consider to build the shield made ​​of aluminum. Now the dozer blade is the weakest link.



The eccentric now find their place.





And so now the page looks with roller.



On the other side of me, the roller remains a problem, but I'll still get.

so piecemeal it goes on.

Now I have the idlers properly installed and aligned to the chain track.



Of course, again the gears and sprockets montert, which I've donated a second screw for fastening.



The assembly of the tracks was then just a matter of form when it has been like mans does best, but now the tub is back on their soles.





However, the tracks are really not very stable and almost a little too short, after I have now psition the idlers in scale, but it still goes.

Here I have now set the servo times in the tub, but let's see if I should install it at all.

This time must drive the Leo , but first I have to install the servo for the plow blade and adjust the regulator .

The servo I just sit on a plastic plate I screw on two feet with the tub.



The servo I can now easily stick to the plastic plate.



Next, I have my battery and the receiver for test drives set in the tub and the control is set with the programming card .



For the test drive, I have a general program on my transmitter . Therefore, I have the dozer blade , although controlled , but not as it should be later. Also, the regulator get so no fine tuning , but that is for test drives also not necessary , as I have a precise adjustment of the suspension can not do because I do not know the later weight distribution.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wQEeU4rQ ... e=youtu.be

The design of the drive is adapted in this Leo not on speed, but to such a workhorse fits to torque and sensitive reaction.
What has somewhat bothered me was the low grip of the tracks , but that might be even better after a precise adjustment of the suspension and more weight.
So my work is complete except for a few small adjustments and settings.