Battle Tanks Nederland

Hello,

After some time I would like to once again build a tank for me , except that I need a course with the latest technology for presentations . Until Munster he should then at least able to ride .

Since I have a penchant for paper armor , Asiatam the Coelian tower now has on offer , I have built the latest gear for the Panthers , the idea was not difficult.

For tank itself

The Coelian was indeed built hull with a Atrappenturm on a panther. So is one to think that certain freedoms as such a vehicle could look like in 1946 ....

So I 'll put the Coelian on a Panther G hull with steel drive. My reasoning for this is this , that for such vehicles often damaged and repaired vehicles were used and the G version would have been replaced at this time increasingly of the Panther F . I 'm on to consider whether I will provide the tower with a different paint than the tub , but that I decide then during construction.

First off, I build the lower hull and this I have already standing in the shell with me.

Here's compiled the most part .



Most of all components used in the construction are so castors with me accrued remains the Asiatam King Tiger that there is not more to buy in this form. I have not found enough of it to build a steel drive as it was described by Atzemann some time ago in a post.

For the steel drive I disconnect the 8 caster wheels and connect it again with a brass spacer.





So I splicing all wheels together. These must now be only times 24 hours.



After the rollers cure now I 've started with the transmission and the cheeks and fitted as a block in the lower hull .

And on it goes , but for other things . Since the Coelian will be heavier than usual , I think so to 10.5 kg I have to adjust the stiffness of the hull that weight too.

That's why today I first wound springs and not only for the Coelian , but also the same for a few other tanks.









The lower hull I had built for a travel weight of 8.5 to 9.5 kg in weight and to take account of this extra weight I'm building now 4 stronger springs in four swing arms a . Here you can see a little difference of the springs. Located in the center is a stronger one.



In order to gain a general impression of the Coelian I compiled it once loose . That will be a nice chunk, so the size of a KV 2







In addition I have the steel rollers in the later arrangement made ​​, since the question arose how they are installed . When steel drive I'll stay by my previous research well .
This is an equally rare drive that was still used in only a few Panther and it is no longer available in this form for the King Tiger .

My Coelian grows and thrives nice and slow .

I have made further first on the inner gear block .

The walls are fitted into the hull , and processes the gears beginning to install .





In the lower hull I wanted this time to make an exact match electronics . So I had to disconnect an 8 cell battery and connect the two halves with cables.



So now I could draw an exact match use and printing.





And even in drive it went a little further .
The drive axles , I had already done and had to just turn something suitable . Then I also have two late idlers found ...



To be able to do with the drive wheels on but I must first mount the rollers and then align control and drive wheels afterwards.
So I first made ​​the axes for the eight wider wheels.
These are made of silver steel and as a stop do I solder a small washer on hard .
For this I stretch it standing in the vice , put some flux under the centrally placed washer and put a very small portion of silver solder in the middle.



Then I warm the axis has been so long from the bottom to the braze .





After cleaning the axles , I can now mount the first eight casters.

By the way still runs the 3D printer for the Coelian . Now that I have also printed a speaker was for the interior nor a control box behind the motors turn.



And so it looks tidy, but later in the tank properly.



But really went there today with the drive on. To mount the center rollers at the correct distance I needed first 8 6.5 mm long brass tube as spacers .



So then I could install the missing wheels.



In the late idlers first some tweaking was necessary. This I had to turn to each 1mm on the inside and then they could also be attached appropriately.





The assembly of the drive wheels and countershaft turns out a little more difficult . First, I have the tracks properly aligned with the aid of an aluminum bar and set the exact position of the track and drive gear.



The drive shows up as even of a new page.



Now that I know exactly where I can solder the drive gear on the axle hard I have this first elaborate a bit .





The axis also slightly roughened and put together in the correct location on a fireproof surface .





So I could then hard soldering and cleaning.





Just as I did with the small drive sprocket.





And so now the forces to be transmitted .





Now I only had to assemble the lid of the outer gear. This is completely filled with grease and screwed to the tray and adhered .







Through the triple ball bearings per axis and strong axis , the torque is now transferred to clean the tracks , but first , the adhesive must still dry.

Today I first adjusted the suspension , due to be very high in this case and raised the tracks .





A jockey wheel way, I have also mounted there with me takes a real function.



In order not to have the tub in Munster so naked I began now even to mount the upper trough and the transom . The transom I hang only with two rakes and can deduct it again at any time .



To the upper tray to attach I am building at the front of a plug closure . Since I have to double up the aluminum hull anyway this is the perfect method.
The aluminum tank I bow to the questions and degrease them. Then I attach the upper hull so on the lower hull as it should be later and glue the edges with tape. So I can now plastic plates glued to the aluminum to stick with without the upper hull .





After the glue has hardened , I must cut and cut only the supernatant Ploly . and I already have a plug closure dan the front.





The nose cone also adapt a little and already the conclusion is almost perfect.



Then today I have connected and programmed nor the regulator .



And so I was able to make a first test drive.





Since the tower and some still missing , I have to at least replace some of the lack of weight currently placed a large piece of iron in the tub, whereupon but still at least 1kg missing the final weight.
The test drive itself was without surprises. The chain jumps as I know it at first something about and there is no weight, but otherwise the Coelian works as it should. Only the sound of the video annoys me a bit because it sounds quite different and much quieter in the original .

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D6B-e0- ... e=youtu.be

And it goes on , so at least he can drive well in Munster .

Today, I have made ​​ready the first attachment of the transom . For this purpose, first to double up the sides as on the front with plastic sheets , crop and files.











Then I have with " STABILITH express" closed all open columns of the transom to the pan . This adhesive is for ideal because it has approximately the same hardness and properties of the plastic of the upper hull .



I have also done this with the terminals of the upper hull to the lower hull . Prevents the tape in between, that the parts stick together finally and still no gap. So the connection is later virtually dustproof. The adhesive cures relatively quickly and can be in the gelling Zusatnd first almost filling and later simply cut with the utility knife . If he's hard as you can hone and polish the plastic tub it as well.







Thus, the upper tray fits now sucking on the lower part and only holds two small magnets simply held the bomb .

I nich screwed the turret ring to the tower base to end for today.



That fits just like in all HL- models and also the height right through a small paragraph at the Resinteil .



However, I must nevertheless there can still come up with something , because the tower so easy to difficult turns , but at least things look already slowly like a tank from .

In order to continue with the tower drive , I first set the speaker and other internals back into the tub.



Thus, the tower can be rotated acceptable to Build 4 small but wide ball bearing into the hull top . In order to achieve a distance of 0.5 mm between the tower and the roof I had the axes of the bearings unscrew something .







So I could then glue from the bottom and support the axles with plastic pieces.





So I Konnet the ring gear from the bottom tightening and it fits quite well.





Since the normal tower drive is too slow , I use a mini servo , to which I have set the drive gear of a HL gear.



To the still good and properly attach I drew me a small bracket that I 'm going to print it tomorrow .

A very small little went here on today.

I have printed the first servo holder and so glued the servo it.



The servo I have cracked and so I need a controller to operate it. For this I use a micro controller of the power from the receiver gets and so I do not need a separate feed lines.



And so I then glued in place.



The drive works quite well now and gets on well with the weight of the tower, but unfortunately it is too slow for me. A revolution in about 8 seconds is just too slow for a flack tanks. Since I'll probably still install a faster servo. The tower was later able to make one revolution in about 3-4 seconds.

The tower servo I have exchanged today. Was just a small effort and now the tower is much faster now. While he has still not the optimal speed, but I'll now first way.

By the way I have a few Etched found for Panther and dabbled in the anterior chain plates.







I did this intentionally bent and dented. I do not have a picture of a tank in use seen in which these sheets would not have been bent and so I will build my Coelian.

And by the way it goes. There are still a few days to Munster .

This time out the mounting of the tower 's turn. I'll do that just as in the upper tray with magnets. In addition I have 4 x M5 flat head screws on the top of something planned , so that the magnets are well supported . In the bottom of the tower , I then marked out the positions of the screws first Drilled and lowered.





After I had cut a thread into the holes I could screw in the screws. This I have backed up with something Pattex and ready.

In order to attach the magnets and not to glue the tower came back adhesive tape used. Then I pinned the magnets . So then I could stick with one suitable piece of poly and STABILITH express the magnets in the correct position . It will look after everything is done in the tower like this .





By the magnets of the tower now holds the bomb and can be easily removed trotzden .

Thus, the turntable still the distance to the base of the tower has and leaves the tower rotate well I still have three spacers glued dan the turntable . Thus, the twist mechanism is now ready .



To my delight, then the postman rang and brought the sound module and speakers.

The course I have the same yet installed .

In the speaker but still had a damping insert . I use this preferred haze filter mats is available in any supermarket. The only cost little, can be cut well with scissors , are lightweight and have good damping properties at our frequencies. The speaker for that I had already printed on my 3D printer.





For a small test , it was enough and even the original sound from Koblenz Panthers came to life.





So I can now also with engine noise in Munster riding. At the other things I have yet to hone .

Now I have first brought the clutter in order.



On the sides I've still got the openings from which hung the removed parts. This I have not plastered, but this I close with STABILITH. The can then edit as plastic and holds much better.





As I still had a little time I've removed the radio operator hatch. This is supposed to be to open and the switch below it. The driver's hatch is but also to the series.



And so I have the armor a bit compiled for Munster and tried the sound module.



The driving sound almost true, but everything else takes a turn later.

I think it's hilarious how google translate translates.
But nice work Edwin

Hi Marcel,

Google is still the best translator ...


And again a little further .

Since I could find an old and coincidentally suitable servo for tube evolation in my scraps box I've inspired me from Ralf's installation inspired in his Coelian and flanges the servo as Ralf on the side and connect it easy with a pen as a clutch .



I just had to come up with a bracket with the I set the servo exactly to the pivot point of the trailer and it also can extend to me again .



Thus, the carriage rotates with I drill in to any site through lid , mount and bearing spines a hole through which I later put a long screw . So I can be also pivot the rangefinder with the mount syncron of the other side with a lever then .

By the way , I have also drawn the lack of rolling shutter and will make this again with my 3 D printer. Since there are different drawings and pictures of the wood tower to the rolling shutter , I have opted for the larger version as this would have provided just more space inside.

After I then had Evolation actually went as far as the problems go. Everything was just not accuratly enough and got stuck forever. After I had everything disassembled I also saw huge wear on the resin.





So I mounted the carriage and reasonable first 4 collars turned from steel.









Also, two new bolts made ​​of brass.



So I have the bearing rings now glued and aligned in the mount and the tower.





Now the carriage moves smoothly and accuratly

By the way my printer yet the two parts has printed to the rolling shutter.



After a few adjustments I have this then glued to the mount and this is the result . The tower has an immediate effect quite different.

From Munster I'm back and now I associate the same time several of things.

I have for my printer for some time a finer nozzle lie that I want to finally try and do I need for my Coelian nor the curved Flamkiller.
So I sat down and which drawn.



The printer I have rebuilt and now I have to find the correct settings for this nozzle has 0.35 mm. This is not done with a pressure.
But the first test prints can hope. In particular, the grid succeed almost immediately useful.







For comparison, .... the parts have a diameter of 15mm.