Battle Tanks Nederland

Once I was at a meeting yesterday, it is today with the installation of the transmission cheeks further. First, the spacers for the cheeks of the two sides gear and let's see how they fit inside.





Then there were the spacers between the gears and the fit of the cheeks in the corners, but then it sits.



Then I busy myself with the first countershaft housings. Since I had a 30 times M1, 2 threads cut into the aluminum. A proper detention.



Eventually this was done and then I could adjust the countershaft. By this, the transmission is so screwed to the inside of the tub and connected thereto.





So I get an absolutely stable and can withstand the forces of the stem and can transmit.

Now that I completed the whole gearbox I can slowly build the proper gear and since I first screwed the two motors in the frame.



Now I can successively build the individual gear stages. for the first two gears must be connected to a shaft. This requires the small sprocket strength on the axis drill out.



I have to edit virtually anyway with my gears all gears before I compose a gear.
After soldering and cleaning the first stage now siht like that.



and I can also install immediately and check for smooth operation.



For the next steps I must first sleeving the larger gearwheels, so they fit on the waves. I drill them first to something bigger and then stick a brass insert into the hole because I turn off at the ends.





To get a clean round running gear I use a sharpened by me for brass drill, I then just zustelle in speed when drilling in that the metal comes out of the hole in spirals. How to access a virtually non-extending bore and about running gears





Now I have the holes and threads for two M3 set screws attach each only with the larger gears.



The pinions of this stage are brazed already there because of the high torque, as solder may loosen and here is the final stage.

And on it goes to the transmission.
I could now as I had already adapted into the tub and put the same even use the ball bearings in the countershaft.



Now I can adjust the countershaft. In addition I have put the gears into the housing and nu see the supernatants.



I rotate the pinion gear at first, so that the gear wheels fit into each other congruently.



Now I have to solder the pinion still hard with the connecting shaft from the inner to the countershaft gear. The high torque make it necessary.







Then the large output gear was adjusted. This holds also later found the drive axle in the countershaft.

Today we went first with the guide wheels on, so I can also set the track chain, especially at the drive wheels.

For this I must first make two axes, since the originals are soft iron and China have only 3mm.

I use 4mm silver steel.



The stop I'm easily in the washer do I solder a little hard. I stretch to the axis standing in a vise, spend some flux and put the silver disc and a small section in the middle.



That one must then only with a gas flame to heat up the solder melts and runs clean.



After brushing, so I have two suitable axes and I can mount the idlers.





Then it's back to the drive axles on. The build is woder hardest part of the tub.
The axles do I feature 8mm silver steel I first ablänge plan and turn. Then comes in each axis at one end I cut a hole in the M4 thread.



Thus, the drive wheels will fit on the axles I milled a flat on each.





Now I can stick the axle with a sprocket mounted to the bearing and align with the chain launched.





The position of the output gear I makiere loop and the point on the axis. In addition, I filed the hole of star-shaped.







Provided with some flux I now address the axle and the gear on a fireproof surface from each other.



So I can then solder the parts hard.



After brushing, I now have a perfectly stable connection to the axle and gear.

WOW!

How do you get the gears and axles so perfectly aligned?

I go WOW one more time!
Keep up the very nice work and please keep us posted

Hi Jan,

this is quite simple. One only has to measure an exact fit well and work and the only way to get a drive that can then drill into the spinning turns lawn with holes.
I think have seen in Munster this year some of mine .....

regards Edwin

still so
you will need to have the right tools to get this done

_________________
Coming Up:
* RSO restore project
* RC demag (2.0)
* Panzerwerfer 42

that's not quite as ...

it is to build with some imagination and a lot of time without my machine something.
I have some of my machines and tools also built myself.

A watchmaker lathe for example.....



And more. Since babemir also has many told what to do and this but it went like this.
Just as you can without weieres with plenty of time to build a tank as I do it. With the machines, it's just easier and faster.....

Since I'm at the Experts' in Mainz at the weekend I also take there before the tub. That's why I'm doing for the sake of clarity only one side of the drive ready now and let the other countershaft still open.

In the page that I set finished, I fill the counter first with graphite grease and insert into the drive shaft so that the fat completely fills the housing behind the gear.



At the front I cross the Overflowing fat back to the counter and fill it as far as it is possible to also. How do I stop without further seals the ingress of dirt and water. It works I could only see recently with my Panther. After several hours of running the filling was still ok. I then screw the cover to seal sufficient mass to well be anywhere.



After cleaning, I have an extremely stable axis and a durable, maintenance-free reduction.



Now I have only installed the chain and the Experts' can come.

And on it goes.

Today was the first show after the second countershaft turn.
I have really nice again filled with grease and screwed the lid with sealing compound.







at the drive wheels I had to unscrew the screws on the back of imitations. It is supposed to block anything since later and can damage them. One can see them anyway when installed not.



After I installed everything I could install the electronics for a test drive. Here I am just programming the controller.



Then of course was a test drive ausgibige turn.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KPUyShx- ... e=youtu.be

Since the pan is too easy, the suspension is a little too high and the necklace is a bit long, but otherwise everything was to my satisfaction.

Now it can go with other things at the sink further

Normally work for me after a successful trial run ended and the tub goes to her new owners, but every now and then I build a tank on request largely completed, as this time also.

That is why it went today with poly continue to work on the tub.

Since the hull sides are made of 1.5 mm aluminum so I have to double up on the ends even with 4mm Ploy. At the same time as I create the attachment for upper hull and transom. To ensure it fits judge the upper hull with transom clean the chassis and glue the corners with adhesive performs well. The Tesa prevents sticking of parts. Then I can stick with STABILITH express the prepared Poly fittings with the supernatants.



Then you should wait at the minimum one hours before the upper hull decreases gently but forcefully. So you get an exact match connection for the hull front.



Next I make first with the transom. This first gets two hooks with which I can plug it into the rear strut. This I must then adapt so until the upper hull can plug clean.





Then I glue the transom again to keep everything on top of the no glue.



Then I glue again each with a poly STABILITH stripes to the sides. This is not so easy because of the corner mirror is warped and so I press it into shape.





By the way I glue also the countershaft.



After I was able to remove the transom again I still use this to adjust the glue better and Dustproof. With STABILITH goes perfect and it can work very well with the poly.



After the glue has cured long enough, man should really have time, I have begun to edit the supernatants on the hull front. I'll do that again tomorrow but only if I continue to can out with the mess.

And on it goes with the tub.

Before I adjusted the ends When finished I wanted to install the solenoid bracket the upper hull.

In addition I have just turned M4 screws with flat head 2 pieces and screwed them into a thick piece of poly I-adhesive at the appropriate place under the rear of the tub to the chain covers.





The height of the screw was adjusted so that it remained a small gap to the upper hull attached to the magnet. Between coil and magnets I had to put a piece of scotch, so I did not connect the magnets with them. On the magnets still a drop STABILITH and put the pan. So I get after curing a perfectly matched magnetic holder.





Now it has finally stopped raining and I was finishing the tub ends.





Since I was just I wanted the same even begin painting.

First disassemble everything again after the bottle and spray degreasing metal base.





And after appropriate drying time, I could mix the yellow Basecolor match the upper hull and painting everything.



Once that was dried, reassemble everything, adjust the upper hull and a little dirty with brown and black. Since the upper hull largely as it is to remain so that the paint is finished except for a little chipping and Washington, then I'm at the very end.









Now it can go on and on to the final sprint to the inner technology.

This time was the first battery in the series to be able to start with the installing.
As always, I used with my 8-cell vehicles that I just break apart in the middle.
The open-loop poles, and I solder two cables with a 80W soldering iron to the poles. The cable I have made ​​as long as the tank is wide.



I cover the open pole with the remains of a blister from which I can adjust with some heat and attach it with a piece of heat shrink tubing.





So I can now build the electronics to the battery.



As well as the electronics, the speaker box is fitted is formed in the tub and with the on-off switch.







So I'm going to make the Köti slowly finished this week.

this is something i still dont understand
they buy a stunning heavy duty hull
and the they put henglong on that
like having a porsche with a lada cabine

_________________
Coming Up:
* RSO restore project
* RC demag (2.0)
* Panzerwerfer 42

Hi Rainer,

it is a customer to a commissioned work. The new owner wants a proper model for driving and now I can do it to a Bassis he himself after his skill can further refine how they want it. It's always a question of price, and usually I build for my clients only the chassis.

I have to build myself completely before a hunting tiger. Danny (Ramstein) just begins with the production of master parts of the upper hull, which I then build fiberglass. The chassis is already fully developed. This Jagdtiger should be a model to be the professionals from driving, from the art and also details of the appeals when I offer him. I think that some people will like it.

regards Edwin