Battle Tanks Nederland

Now the suspension of the third well in the series.

The rocker arms and springs are already installed. It still lacks the counter-holder of the springs and I have the tub as the two first even double up with plastic sheets, but that's just a formality.



Here I have a swing times as I install it.
He is mounted on 19mm length of your silver steel shaft in a brass bearing in the tub and gets a dirt seal from outside an O-seal. The, the weight of the tank is inserted into a matching tongue of the actuating ring is clamped with two set screws to the M3 axis. Thus, the suspension is very stable and fully adjustable and is held securely by the double clamping.

The suspension of the third well is now installed.



In all three tigers I have taken that the bottom it remains as smooth as possible.



So now I could ever mount the wheels in the first two and adjust the suspension.







Next, are now the eccentric chain adjuster turn.
For this I use a 10 x 10mm brass rod that I make the holes.



Then fixed to the eccentric, hard soldered to the axles I file into the larger holes corners. May be better distributed between the solder and eccentric axis during soldering and connects the parts then absolutely secure.

Today I solder the eccentric.

First, I have but only cut the axes of 6mm silver steel and ground on the points to be soldered.



Before you put the axles in the eccentric I moisten everything still points to the brührungs surface with a suitable flux.





I've had enough for brazing itself for these parts this small torch just good. I'm even for soldering workpieces as long hot until the flux cleans the visible surface. I from the outside to melt some silver based alls and then warm the side of the axis, so that the solder is drawn by capillary action and the heat through the gap between the parts and connecting surface.



After cooling in the first stage I turn on the outer circumference and the two sides.



After I have cleaned the axis of the flux residues do I get the eccentric with my small belt sander in shape.





So I can now mount the idlers in the pans and adjust the chain track. And I've seen that at least one of the Leitradachsen is bent and I still have to replace them. If the wells are then also charged the correct amount of idlers.









And then I also unpacked, gear ....... dreams ......



With this I can now also begin slowly.

Now I have begun to build the transmission. The first thing that I must make the spacers of the transmission cheeks and I turn me from 6mm brass.



The cutting should be carried out as accurately as possible. The better the cheeks are parrallel, the easier and friction Poorer runs the transmission. So I aim for a precision landing with max. 2/100 Tolerance.





After the lengths of the rods are still correct pierced uind cheeks bolted to talk to fit profisorisch.





So I can then fit the gearbox halves individually in each pan exactly. The link I put ebenfals ago 6mm brass rods.





So I will create a suction gear employed for each pan.





For the first two wells, the engines are now already there.



So I'm doing the next time with the flywheels more.

Today I started with the flywheels. In addition I have cut a few slices as a first step, a steel rod.



The discs were then turned flat, drilled and turned out to the red-hot steel rings fit strictly the rotors of the motors.







While I was working in the flywheels I have also rebuilt the engines of the first two Tigers and prepared for the steel rings. To this must be for the assembly in the gears even rebuilt because the motor shaft for mounting a gear on the Wrong side would be.



I make one after all 4 electric motors ready for installation.





Next, the first gear stage is the number that I need 6 times. I have to drill out the small gears on 4mm shaft diameter and rub.



Since I the gears to the shaft for this step are solder or grooves in the gears is required into which the solder can suck. This I file the shaft bore of the gears with a file to an indicated square.





So that everything is also a good link to this wave be sanded with a small belt sander.



So the parts are put together for soldering on a fireproof surface, heated by a small gas burner with solder wets the shaft and pushed the gears about it. Then the shaft ends is heated up correctly, so that the solder is drawn to these ends and cooled.



After brushing, I then 6 times the first gear stage ready for installation.





And so you get an idea how the drive already in the tub now takes place.

To build good, long life and easy rolling gear is relatv consuming. I have to edit virtually every gear.
Today the big gears were for the three tigers in the series. As this that I have a 5mm hole is too big, I made ​​this jack. To drill and I rub them out to 6.5 mm. 6.5 mm because I have some nich Messingsäbe with this measure.





I glue the brass rods into the holes and warm it so that the adhesive reacts faster.



After I turned the supernatants plan see the gears that way.



Up to this point it was pretty easy and it required no particular precision. But that is changing now. Since I in these gears, Module 0.5 must be used very be careful when drilling through the gears that they are not running, otherwise wiggle the gears, or a height shock may be caused. Both is not good in a transmission.

Therefore you need a feed with a good run, or even better a collet and the shaft bore is in three steps forth. First drill with a center drill, then very slowly pierce with a 3.8 mm drill with little pressure, and finally rub with a 4mm reamer to fit H7.



Since the unit is to be dismantled I make two holes for M3 grub screws in the gear flange.



After all burrs and chips are then removed are ready to install the gears before me, but then tomorrow.

Today I have the second, inner stage of the series. For this I have already prepared yesterday the big gears.
Now I need to do I solder the shaft to the pinions hard. This is necessary because of the rather high torque my motor only.

Thus, the solder connect the gears to the shaft surface and I sharpen them at one end and flat on the periphery of it on two sides somewhat.



Then I push with use of flux, the gears on the flat ends.



So I can wave soldering for all three gears.

And after cleaning they are ready for installation.



And then the stage is mounted in the cheeks. Here again I must of course make sure that everything is very easy.



So today I still mounted the same Gearblock for the second tiger. For the third Tiger I build with the parts, but do it only after the first two of further since my engines are still missing.

Now the transmission is bolted to the tub, or rather, the trough is clamped between the gear and the countershaft.
I to the screw housing of the counter by the side parts of the trough to the transmission face.





So now the drive axles turn. I turn from this 8mm silver steel in the I drill a hole for the wheel attachment and an M4 thread cutting.





The flattening of the drive wheels I milled again with the help of cooling-lubricating medium to the axes and of course I'm doing again all the parts for 3 vehicles.





Then I have to edit the gears of the countershaft. First drill out the big gears of the drive axles and turn off at the waist to 6.5 mm in width.







Then do the same with the pinions of the PTO.



Then hard soldering was back in fashion.

In addition I have re-filed the first hole of the larger gears slightly angular.



After I had sanded the shaft slightly and set the exact position of the gears on the axles, I could coat with flux and solder.



I did that with the transmission axes and so see the shafts and axles then after cleaning out.





So I have ever installed and adjusted the light running.



Tomorrow then made the countershaft and finished the first test drive is waiting.

Now the first of the three tubs comes to driving.

But before that, the drive must be completed.

The countershaft are ready ready for assembly.



This I fill completely before screwing the lid with Grafithfett.



And then came the tedious but adjusting the sprockets. In the following two tigers then it goes much faster.
Here you can well recognize the space, how close they run past the right arm especially.



And here now the chain track.



And mounted with chain.



And of course I've also done a test drive in the garden.



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The suspension is still too high and is not even broken in and tuned, but the trip went without failures and lost parts

Now that the drive is running the first tiger I need a little bit of variety.
So I started to disassemble the tower this Tigers and the mechanics of the chariot exchange cannon.



Since the elevation and the recoil will later be dealt with first servos I need a mounting platform for this. To use the weight of the servos as compensation for the gun I mount both on a aluminum bracket to attach to the gun I saw.



This aluminum angle I screw with the gun cradle. This keeps bombproof.





I mount the servos then next time

And here it goes a little further, one thing I have going on here but back then it really about ....

Nevertheless, I have done with the tower on.

First, the servos tested and placed in the center position. I'm using since only servos with metal gears. Since then, I no longer broke.



On the aluminum bracket I have glued a 2mm poly-edition.



The connecting rod between the gun barrel and the servo do I make a 1.5 mm aluminum rest.



And so I can stick the servo on the connecting rod bearing and mount.



So like I'm doing it with the servo for pipe Elivation.



Now you just need the button for the flash shot, but another time

And here it goes again after further between times I had to do something else.

The switch, which is the cause of the excess flash I have the arm still extended by I glued a thin strip of brass.



And so the button is released and remains pressed in the final position of the servo. Only then the flash fires only once.





And so it now looks in the tower now.



Thus wer was now first again screwed and set aside.
Now I do first and the second well done.

The first step was again the gear align exactly in the trough and screw with the housings of the countershaft.



And when I had perfect everything .... ... I could build it all back and disassemble the transmission. In an engine is a very small metal chip had smuggled and since I risked no damage to the winding by I ignore him ......
So the whole thing up again.

When everything was back where I was able to install the PTO to the back gears and always sure it runs smoothly.





And next time it goes with the back gears on again....

Today I have to solder the large gears with the hard drive axles first.

For this I draw to the first position of the gears on the axles and imagine a Caliper firmly so that I can later adjust the exact position during soldering.



Between these two lines I sharpen the axes in such a way that the grooves run along the axis and thus also results in a set of teeth to the rotation direction. That's what I do with my favorite tool, a small belt sander.





So that the brazing area also connects the gears to the axles I file into the bore of multiple channels into which the solder can be spread by capillary action with a file.



Then brush the parts at the contact points with flux, solder and stuck together.





After quenching in water I edit the workpieces to the lathe and plasters them. The teeth I work with a stainless steel brush with the buildup I remove the coverings and fluxes.





The last step is again a small heat treatment, notably, the axes are not sensitive to shock. So I give the parts again for one hour at 230 ° C in the oven.





The axes are then ready for installation. But before I fit more to the drive wheels.
But still not right with the chain.



With late drive to set the track is easiest. One only has an aluminum bar stuck in the middle of the rollers.

Since the drive wheels must still 3.8 mm closer to the tub I edit it again on my big lathe.





And it must look like then.





Tomorrow I'm doing the countershaft to then.

And on it goes.

Today was the assembly of the countershaft to the series.

For this purpose, I first filled the housing with graphite grease, the drive axle is pushed to the gear, which then leveled supernatant fat to the middle and cleaned the edge.







The next step was to cut the 13 pieces M1, 2 screws with whom I have the lid screwed. Of course, the sealant was not to forget.





After the countershaft is now closed I had to adjust the drive. Here's a little editing using a file or belt sander was necessary.





So then the drive has less than 1mm clearance to the countershaft.



The assembly of the chains was then just a formality.



After the drive is now so far advanced I had to for a test drive or the controller soldering and programming.



And then came the big eye look again. If everything goes the way I imagine it, or I have to optimize something, or even change.



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Once I got next to some other electronics for testing yesterday the missing motors and regulators for the third Tiger since it goes on.

First was again the steel rings of the weights of the series.



Once these are the engines were turned to rebuilding. Which must be disassembled and the axis are pressed onto the other side of the rotor.



The left rotor still has the factory settings, right now the drive shaft exits the motor on the right side.



Such were then the steel rings on the rotors to gluing and pressing. In addition I have also configured the same and solder the regulator.