Hi,
I now just start times with my first post, even though I'm done with this model to 90%. Since I deal less with the appearance of the models as faithful as possible to the original function, which could indeed be interesting for the A, or others.
I build here a Panther tank made of aluminum, with my own suspension, extra strong chain tensioner, a self-developed transmission with functional reduction gears, very strong and real inertia brushless motor.
With my tub so you can, the original is very close to driving behavior of the suspension characteristics, as obtained also from the drive.
But now here is the entry ....
And on it goes to the transmission block. First assemble the second side far.
Then, a first adjusting was necessary. As you can see whether the drawing matches the reality the same time.
As the PTO Results Next to the reduction gears to the series for this is I also use other gears with module 0.7.
Due to the high torque at this point I just need to solder the pinion of there hard with the back gear shaft. Keeps the solder unfortunately not.
For solder I schleffe the shaft under the pinions on two sides of something flat so that the solder can suck into the gap.
When soldering, I give the lot just in front of the wave and the heat from the back. Thus, the solder is sucked through the column in the direction of the heat and I have an extensive and reliable solder joint.
After plastering the axes with the sprockets, then look like this.
Because the two gears the I push inwardly on the shaft larger than the shaft hole is strong, yet they had I sleeving. But this should not be done with finished brass tubes. This is too inaccurate and only wobbles. I press enter a full bar and turn it off.
And so the PTO then go to the outside.
The eigendlichen drive axles do I feature 8mm silver steel. I turn this off, drill a 3.3 mm hole in the center I cut an M4 thread. I'll do that again but only with the hand crank machine with de-energized.
The flats of the drive axles I milled on. So I get a sucking easiest and play free fit of the drive wheels.
The later driven wheels on the drive axles I have to drill out the Shaft and rub.
So then I can adjust with a little effort and also with the superimposed Hilfer the exact length of the chain axes.
Next it goes next time