Battle Tanks Nederland

Hello,

as did a few of you noticed , I have been about 1.5 years more into the topic 3D printing , also to give me your own picture and because I have seen really fast again how far wishes, hopes and real knowledge diverge . Something I have ever experienced in CNC milling and even today therefore it is practically non- use over and over again , or partly completed machinery on Ebay than € 1 auction and I must say that the requirements of the 3 D printing , if you get really creative want to work with it are still a bit higher , although cheaper and clean.

If you would like to buy a 3D printer is the first fact to learn a suitable 3D CAD program. While there are several sites on the internet to download finished drawings that are more nearly in one second frequency , but also I've found very little that I could do and nothing for our hobby . Even the few good drawings are never ready for printing and must always be edited. Even if you find a finished G- code this is always tailored to a specific printer and can work only with this properly.
And if so .... what you want with the 15904728 Flower Vase from Plastic ?
This is also every honest seller of 3D printers and those who confirm with success run a .

Then there is always the debate on the surfaces.
Well, are not smooth , but what you want and need . Also, I have looked more closely and it is usually more a matter of settings and time pressure what can be achieved there. To my surprise, very much, but even so one must deal extensively previously and you can also still rework the surfaces . For most applications that are feasible for our hobby the achievable surfaces are quite useful . A revolver in 1/16 I would not even want to print, but also constantly and continuously improved.

So I did earlier this year decided to put me to such a printer and occupied myself with manufacturers and technology. Since I have a little knowledge and there is a lot that is not continuous but worth recommending . Since I consider only printers that are constructed with lead screws from the hardware store , to which the own sellers say that it only works properly when consuming remodels him and the only 700 € is priced at a very well known provider of electronics , but , the start or as Gegensück devices for professional providers at € 20,000 .

I then decided to go for a printer kit Multirap M300 per the company Multec .
The manufacturer is as well accessible in Germany , the components supplied top quality and the construction of a 3D printer stable, well thought out and continous use by the built-in linear guides. What for me was also important is the new way of controlling with a tray in Standallone operation.
The structure was also more like a Lego robotics kit and this extensive and well documented instructions.
So then he stood on my table.



The good responsiveness was also still the same put to the test , as I had trouble printing the same times and were unable to achieve useful results , as the tops always remained open .
Here is a part of the experiment with this problem.



In a telephone conversation has turned out, however after a few minutes that I had a wrong firmware on the controller. With a little help but that was then resolved very quickly and I was able to start teach- me correctly .

Here is a series of relatively complex part to the Print support Struck doors inside and out with the one must then be broken out later. On the surface I have here , however, still placed no value.



Here this part during printing, you can better recognize the support structures .





As a comparison, I have also printed times with a finished G- code from Multec two vases overnight which I also want to say that I use a 0.5 mm nozzle. For finer prints , there are also 0.35 mm what the print times but slowed significantly . For just overnight.



Today I have the first part printed a sprocket to my Panzer III in 1/6 . Not with all the possibilities and with errors in the drawing. You can , yes, but even this would be usable even as a master with a little reworking.

Here when printing on the table.



And here now sometimes incorrectly identified as sprocket.





I print with PLA way that this material is odorless , can be printed easily and also does not warp like ABS .

Greeting Edwin

Hello Edwin,

I had plans to print the springhousing of my E-50 so one day I could built the E-75.
But I guess that it will be not so easy to print them as they are round and in parts massive.

Hi Maecel,

I want precisely the 3D printer to create master models for castings use, because you can use it to create better and detaliertere models. Only now I have to learn it first.




And it goes a little further.

By yet very complex ways and the many possibilities for adjusting the 3D print is a newcomer , a very complicated thing, but slowly I bereife far from all but a few contexts.

The decision to have a Standallone printer I do not regret any rate , simply because of the manachmal but very long print times .

I try , therefore, just a lot with the possibilities of various programs

A small example I have here. For test prints I downloaded from the Internet a small toy . Three rings are connected to each other and all three are together and interlocked printed. A matrimonial quite simple but the part is quite demanding if you want to print it.

The first printing tests I stopped in approach because eigendlich only the table was smeared with PLA. Once I understood as slow as to what settings you have to work were the rings in different settings and printed created by two programs.

The first pressure took even ever 3.5 hours. It was written with a layer of 0.3 mm on the visible exterior walls .

Here the pressure and for better reference, a USB stick to down .



From above, the outstanding rings. These are only to 30% with material between the outer layers

filled .

And so do the finished rings.





I created with another program and a standard profile for hollow parts of the second pressure. For hollow parts because the gap in the first printing was always crowded and everything blurred . But the pressure only lasted 22 minutes and was printed with 0.4 mm layer height .

Here you can see well that the top remains open.



And here again is a detailed view of the surface with the USB stick. This time corresponds to the surface what was here already often associated with the bad surfaces. Toy for a sufficient , but not more .



Third, the rings created by the same program again , but this time with my suitable settings. The pressure was still as I drove , but the printing time was given 2h 20m . The layer height on the outside that I have now adjusted to 0.1 mm with a light filling that fills more than 90% of the hollow space anyway.

Here the pressure.



The visible sides are now so fine that only nich minnimale processing is necessary and could reach a paint job even for the leveling of the surface and it is quite a lot more feasible. Currently I print with a 0.5 mm nozzle and I will also install one 0.35 mm. The only drawback to this fine finishes is the sometimes very long printing time . But this is relatively in master parts and the printer works alone anyway.

What I can not improve is the very slight angularity in curves. This is the file format specified volume of body out of sheer composite triangles generated. When I create a self- drawings, I can adjust just that and increase the resolution significantly . These files can then indeed be very large and the computational time in generating the G- code is considerably longer , but even that is well acceptable.

With the toy it goes on too, but with a I have now drawn itself . Three rings each consisting of a spherical segment , which blend into one another , and this again printed in a single pass. So I can try the settings and Miscellaneous while drawing. Here I have for example the resolution of the triangles increases dramatically in dr drawing. Since the slicer needs ( the program that generates the G.Code ) ever to create 10 minutes to a print file but it works. To this end, I practice a little of the I becoming a little change to get a feel for the cause settings. The pressure is therefore not quite as fine as successful last time , but already around and without all the corners.







The second thing I tried today is a small fan that can cool the pressure part . So you can tall, slender and fine parts better printing.
Here I have to a switch case in which I was allowed to stand very high , the thin pages. The first pressure without cooling were completely crooked and so that's become much better.

And on it goes.

If you want to cool components that can also go wrong.

Here I have printed a speaker that has warped due to the cooling and then released during printing from the table.





But despite these small setbacks , from which I learn it's vorran . The cabinet I have adapted for my panther exactly in the bathtub and first printed in several parts.



And so it will look assembled.



in the tub , I can now plug in almost sucking it .



and the switch is the correct position.



But the best part is the sound ..... this comes wesetlich richer than with the old polybox . I suspect that this has to do with the largely hollow walls of the box.
So now I have to talk the first practical application .

And with the Second , for the printer , it 's straight on . In my experiments , I've noticed that may be the resistance of the filament role to affect the print result have . This is only hung on a profile piece and therefore does not roll evenly on them.
So I have a bracket drawn in which I can put a ball bearing and connect with a second with a rod . The whole thing then I screw easily on the profile and I can simply roll up the Fillament place .

Here are the two bearing blocks printed and ready.





But again, I had to learn first . The PLA also has a low shrinkage , which I had not yet taken into account in the first printing . Thus, the bearing does not fit into the holder. After I had this Skalliert by 2% , the stock now sits at attention as it should be in it.

We so small accidents also passioeren .
This bracket had come loose and moved the printing of the plate. This is the result .



And so then does the new, mounted Fillamentroller .



And now I can play the role simply stuck on the holder and it now rotates slightly evenly.



The function is of course also tested the same. Currently running a small company logo of me. Let's see how this comes off the printer.

The lettering is now finished and after three attempts at a decent quality.

From the first attempt at the top until today the printed word.



The first two I did a little rework, the last is even more so as he had come out of the printer. The difference in the settings was just absolutely bare, but deuitlich to see. The difficulty was the greater Scriptures clean fill and the smaller by not smudging as you can see something on the first try.

Of course I have it also installed the same ....

My daughter has now found also like it and learns diligently draw 3D CAD and machining of parts .
Currently it prints a butterfly, which was to find as template in internet.

I myself have now also tried once and I downloaded a bunch of stuff from the Internet.

Well, ... enthusiasm about it is something else.
The files are often very large , but very flawed, rough and need to be reworked. Many drawings are with my printing system is not really that feasible , or must be shared on the CAD program and put back together after printing.

Still, I 've got to practice a few objects in work.

First of all what a friend of mine ....... Lord Helmchen I have not found , but maybe there is this somewhere as an STL file .....









Incidentally, I have also built my way LED lighting for printing. After I moved the printer to the equipment room is there something darker, so you need a pressure plate lighting. But there has only advantages . Always the same room temperatures , Very dry and clean ..... and I must no longer walk up two flights of stairs .

A second object from the Internet will be a Tiger .... well , .... just about ....

That's what I was able to try some long and slender objects to print , but is still a total of improvement.

Still, I practice with the 0.5 mm nozzle.

A 0.35 mm nozzle, however, is already there, but first I have designed a energy chain as an exercise, printed and installed in my printer.







This I constructed from individual parts that I have just put together with super glue. Sometimes such a solution gives a better and faster result than wanting something from one piece. For this purpose, it was to get a nice exercise to a result of several pages to optimize it. The chain was then immediately such that there is virtually no expensive rework needed to remove support materials and to click them together also can.

So my printer is now running with something for Easter Sunday. 4 egg cup with rabbit feet.

Today I have again sacrificed an hour and a second power chain mounted on the Z-axis. So I have now installed the wiring also beautiful and durable.







Now I'm missing only a little on the lighting, but which is already in the car ...

I am currently working tentatively with a resolution of 0.02 mm per layer and as I am after a few modifications to the printer slowly at useful results and with any printer from the five-figure range .

But right now my main focus is still to be understood in the Software and this . So my test parts are also getting better.

It was my intention to achieve a uniform mode of expression , That the surface in relation to the layer height is thus improved just a nice side effect.





By the way , I have installed an LED lighting. The I got times for 3 € from the flea market and is quite suitable with their effects for showmen , but also good bright
Came for the supplied remote control so even as a finger exercise a holder to do so.





And again for a correct application , in which the surface plays only a minor role in the components for a Rohrevolation a Ferdinand .

overnight now I have these rings can run at a layer height of 0.02 mm.
Here you can already see the second layer , since one in the picture just can not recognize correctly the first .



So it is possible readily , but it starts all over again at all settings . The pressure with this extremely flat layer height is also a possibility , even if the part has become anything yet. The difficulty increases with the accuracy at very . So agree , for example, also the information on the tablet at print time and not more Layer height. The specified print time varies between one third and half of the time and really needed the specified height above the table as well. Since at least the software of the AP in the tablet does not seem to come up with those settings cope . However, the print itself is not even notice , only the very long loading times of the G- code by the size of the files nerf something .





I have the bruised part , because it is bonded by too much flow ( material feed ) anyway and the side surfaces by just plain gross . But what you can already see on the second picture is the excellent surface at the top of the smooth circulation in no way inferior .

When I came home were the first parts to the elephant finished and the new software works for it excellent. The support was now to remove without effort and it required little rework.

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I've also looks here the current state as my printer now.



Situated he is in the equipment room of my house, because it is without tension there in well ventilated area and the printer is no longer heard, despite its relatively low noise in the house even at night.
I have it still treats us with lighting.
There is a fan to cool the printed components assembled the needed with particularly fine and slender structures
The scope of the Z axis is supported on each side in addition with a strut.
The wiring is performed on all moving bodies in energy chains, the lower is still on a sliding support.

What is to come is a double linear guide to X and Y axis and a better fine-tuning of the printing table in order to better be able to work with very low layer heights of less than 0.08 mm.

Now I want to slowly come to the parts to print for which I have bought myself the printer. Nevertheless, I have to still try some.

Therefore, I have begun today something difficult.
For these tests, I use the drawing of a pulley half of the Panzer III in 1 / 6th It looks so relatively easy, but the difficulty starts with the fact that it must be printed to 95% in the air and I thus have to work accordingly with support.

Currently running on my printer , the first attempt of this pressure roller to which I have created the G- code with a freeware program . Layer height 0.1 mm

In the software that looks like this . here is a section in which you can see the good support including some error in Brim ( outer circumferential line) but these are not relevant.



And here is the final in the simulation roller.



This is now being printed and will require about 10.5 hours.



For comparison, I also have a more professional program that you have to buy , but I'm not ready yet behersche . But since I was able to start with a layer height of 0.08 mm. Duie settings are still 90% standard and it results in an estimated run time of 13.5 hours.
Here for comparison the cut in the support.



And here again the finished roller.



Let's see what comes out . If I succeed are the wonderful master to metal casting.

The first runner with the freeware program is now printed and as I expected it still significantly improved.

Here the stand when I arrived at night from work.





Then this morning the final of the printer roller half.

.

I have not yet settled for a better comparison of the raft and support. However, the surface is still significantly improved, although it would be useful for this scale since the parts must always be reworked because of their complexity . But what I still do not see the bottom and leave as peel off the supporting structures. The pressure took the way two hours longer than the calculation of the program.

Then I started printing with the purchased software. This shows from the beginning distinct differences. It is a rich Raft ( Haftstrucktur ) printed with an easier to be detached interlayer and I have also a much richer Brim ( A Brim fills the extruder nozzle and drives air bubbles from the nozzle which can interfere with the pressure and is always drawn around the component ) to the pressure the no serrations shows . Similarly, the support structures look much cleaner . What also strikes me is the much quieter and not so hectic procedure of printing table .

And on it goes with the tests.

First, the result with the purchased software

Here are the pressures.



The result is first times sobering , but I also had no miracles expected , since I do not yet know the program and also not made any , necessary for the printer adjustments have . In each case, the surface is significantly worse and what you can not see on the picture is too small a flow ( material feed) which too little PLA comes on to the part which can be seen especially in the non-closed ring ..



In such settings, but one has to grope and can not expect miracles.
Then I once removed the support of both parties and this result is not yet satisfactory, although this was relatively easy to remove.





So I created the G- code again revised the purchase program . A little more flow, a higher printing speed which the printing time shortened by 3 hours and a finer support.

That was this morning the result.



The surfaces are now closed , although still seems a bit too little flow to be there and it is relatively smooth. All the beads on the surface could almost turn away so what does not hurt .

Here also the three parts to compare side by side.





So slowly I approach a useful result .